Via de la Plata - Day 38: Albergueria to Xunqueira de Ambia (22.6km on 5/26/17)

We left our albergue before 6:30am and walked only a short distance before it began to rain - with thunder and lightning in the distance.  After a short climb we passed over the top of the ridge and began a long descent of 300m over about 5km.  The rain strengthened and we even had a lightning strike nearby.  Fortunately after 7km, the first village, Vilar de Barrio had a nice bar so we took refuge and spent an hour or so enjoying the shelter and cafe con leche.  We left in a break in the weather but only got a ways before the skies opened up - heavy rain and hail with an inch of water running down the street - we stood under the roofline of a house so were not drenched.  We are now in a broad river valley with nice farmland.  The path continued across the valley with only a bit of rain.  After another 9km we took another break for coffee then contiinued on to our destination of Xunqueira de Ambia where we checked into a small albergue - Casa Tomas - where we have a nice double room with bath.  It’s been awhile since we had our own bath, sheets and towels!  Lunch was a menu del dia at a nearby bar and we relaxed the rest of the day and only had a glass of wine and snack for dinner.

Perhaps 15 minutes after leaving the albergue it began to rain

We climbed a bit then began a long descent just past this cross

Typical path for the first 7km

As we neared the first village the rain increased

Waiting out a thunderstorm in Vilar de Barrio.  Thank goodness a nice bar was open.

Outside of our bar - refuge from the storm

In between rain showers - view of farmland and the clouds

Waiting out heavy rains and hail.  An inch of water was running down the street

A long straight stretch in between rain showers

Walking through the fog as we crossed a ridge

Structures are for the storage of grain and corn.  One sees these all over Galicia

Narrow alley in Xunqueira de Ambia

Albergue Casa Tomas in Xunqueira de Ambia

Via de la Plata - Day 37: Campobecerros to Albergueria (27.4km on 5/25/17)

We had breakfast of yoghurt, fruit and cookies on the patio behind our albergue and left at 6am.  Even though before sunrise, we only needed our headlamps for a few hundred yards.  We climbed on a one lane gravel road for about one hour and then descended for nearly three hours.  There were no bars along the way but when we passed through the small village of “As Esira” we found that a resident had left coffee and snacks in front of their house, asking only for a donation to allow them to continue this service - what a treat since our earlier breakfast did not include coffee.  After the descent, at the 15km point of our day, we entered the medium sized village of Laza.  There we found a nice restaurant where we sat outside and enjoyed huevos con jamon and cafe con leche.  As we finished we began to hear rumbling of thunder and noticed dark clouds.  The rest of the day was 12km so we hurried along.  The final two hours was spent climbing in the rain on a gravel track.  Fortunately not too heavy of a rain.  We entered the village of Albergueria and found our Albergue - Rincon del Peregrinos.  It’s one of the more places we’ve stayed in.  The albergue is in an old house and across from a bar owned by the same man.  The village is full of old stone buildings - most of them not occupied.  The rain stopped shortly after our arrival and we enjoyed sitting outside in the street, eating empanada and drinking beer.  Dinner was in the bar.  

View looking down the street as we left Campobecerros at around 6am

Looking west as we climbed on a gravel track

Small village and view of the valley below

As we descended on a gravel track we walked through forests - a change from the highlands we left

We passed through a small village of "As Eiras" and found that a resident had left coffee and snacks in front of their house for a small donation.  Very welcome since we had not had coffee in our albergue 

Nice roses in the same village

In Laza we had "second breakfast" of jamon con huevos.  Yummy!  Just right to prepare us for the big climb ahead.

A signpost in front of an albergue

Typical route for the 12km from Laza to Albergueria.

We had a big climb (400m over 9km) in the rain.  Here we are following a goatherd with his flock.

We stayed in Albergue Riconcon del Peregrino in the village of Albergueria - only 140km to Santiago!

Front of the albergue

Another view of the albergue

Inside the bar - walls and rafters covered with scallop shells autographed by pilgrims

House in the village - probably unoccupied

House in the village - probably unoccupied

Via de la Plata - Day 36: A Gudina to Campobecerros (20.8km on 5/24/17)

We left the albergue just before 6am as we had been told that the “bar peregrino” was opening “about 6am”.  We waited around, were just leaving without breakfast, and someone drove up at 6:15.  It was nice to have cafe con leche and a chocolate croissant!  The weather was clear and temperature comfortable as we left.  Sunrise on the village and hills was quite nice.  At first we walked on a 2 lane road and then it narrowed to a concrete lane and most of the rest was on dirt/gravel tracks with a few returns to the paved road.  We climbed a fair bit but not too bad.  Temperatures were in the 80's and no shade as we finished even though it was before noon.   We descended into Campobecerros near the site of a AVE (high speed rail) project’s big tunnel.  The village is small with two bars, a municipal albergue and perhaps a casa rural.  We got beds in the albergue (18 person capacity with washing machine but no kitchen), showered, started a load of laundry and returned to our bar for a bocadillo and beer.  Not too much to do for the rest of the day other than relax.  Nice!

Sunrise looking back towards A Gudina

We walked on two lane road for an hour or so.  After that we were on one lane roads or gravel tracks

Morning view of the countryside.

Below is a reservoir.  

Looking down onto Campobecerros.  The high speed rail project is building a tunnel there.

Our Albergue in Campobecerros.  The artwork is of a Carnival celebrant in costume

Via de la Plata - Day 35: Lubian to A Gudina (26.2km on 5/23/17)

We had coffee and yoghurt in the albergue.  It's a bit challenging geting packed in the bunkroom and I could not find my hat!  I returned to my bunk and looked around as well as possible without waking anyone up but without success.  We were walking by 6:30am and the route was on paved lanes and we descended for awhile and then began another big climb or ~6km.  Most of the climb was on dirt/gravel tracks and often with water running or muddy spots.  However, it was possible to proceed without getting our feet wet and we reached the summit where we left the province of Zamora, part of Castille and Leon, and entered the province of Ourense, part of Galicia.  It’s nice to be back in Galicia as that’s the home of Santiago de Compestela - perhaps 200km away.  The descent was gradual and we found a nice hotel where we had cafe con leche and a pastry.  As we continued we passed through several other villages that should have had bars but none were found.  Some of the track was along streams and along stone walls.  Not far after we entered a barren landscape with no shade and lots of exposed stone.  Vegetation was sparse and almost no shade and pretty warm - temperatures in the mid 80’s.  I fashioned a hat out of my kerchief and kept it wet so that helped.  After 26km we reached our destination of A Gudina and grabbed bunks in the municipal albergue.  The facility eventually filled completely.  After a refreshing shower, we went to a nearby “Bar O Peregrino” and had large beers and really nice hamburguesas.  That was enough food and dinner was simply ensalada mixta.  

Old church just before sunrise

We climbed for an hour or more - mostly in shade and on sometime muddy track

And climbed and climbed

At summit we left Zamora province and crossed into Ourense province of Galicia

Map showing our destination of Santiago de Compostela

Cute monument welcoming us to Galicia

Old church in village where we had "second breakfast"

Second half of the walk was mostly like this.  Bare stony ground with little shade and quite a bit of climbing.

Lunch after arrival in A Gudina - Hamburguesa Completo & large beer.  Patty was probably ground pork and with cheese, ham, bacon, lettuce, tomatoe & onions

Via de la Plata - Day 34: Requejo de Sanabria to Lubian (17.2km on 5/22/17)

We were up at 5:30, had banana and yoghurt in the albergue then cafe con leche in the bar next door after it opened at 6am and were walking before 6:30.  We walked on a small road for a kilometer or so and were redirected to the N-525 highway.  There is a high speed railway construction project that uses the small road we would have normally taken.  After 5km or se we left the highway and followed a gravel track (probably the old highway) up and over the pass.  Today’s climb was ~450m reaching an altitude of ~1370m (~4000’) - the highest elevation on Via de la Plata.  The climb and descent was reasonably gradual and not too difficult.  Just across the pass we stopped for cafe con leche in a village and continued our descent.  Again, we were directed away from the usual route due to construction projects.  The route was very pleasant and not too steep.  Our albergue was on the outskirts of Lubian and small (only 8 bunks) and nice.  At 3 euros it was the cheapest of our camino.  We shopped for groceries for a simple dinner and had a menu del dia lunch in a nice bar.  I had seen “secreto de cerdo” (translates as “secret of the pig”) on other menus but was reluctant to order that in Spain!  However a bit of internet searching reassured me that it was a cut of meat from the pork shoulder.  It was tasty.  The three course menu del dia was 9 euros.  We relaxed for the afternoon then had wine (a Rioja reserva), cheese and cured pork loin for dinner in our albergue.   Unlike previous days, the albergue was “completo” - fully occupied.

In the pre-sunrise - standing by sculpture of a pair of shoes.

Walking along the N-525 before sunrise

The usual route was closed due to a railroad construction project so we were directed to walk on the N-525 road

Shadows of pilgrims

Fountain near our destination.  Note the scallop shell.

Fountain in Lubian, Spain.  Apparently the name, "Lubian" is derived from "wolf".

Glenn in front of interesting building in Lubian

Secreto de Cerdo (Secret of Pork) my main course at lunch today.  One needs to be careful (or brave) when ordering "secret of the pig" in Spain!  Three course lunch including wine was 9 euros.

Old building in our village

Outside view of our Albergue - Municipal Albergue de Peregrinos in Lubian.  A bed cost 3 euros (~$3)!

Kitchen area and two bunk beds on ground floor

Upstairs are 6 bunk beds - total of 8 bunk beds in the albergue - 16 people

View from our albergue looking back towards the pass that we crossed this morning