Via de la Plata - Day 25: Urbanization El Chinarral to Villanueva de Campean (27.3km on 5/13/17)

We “slept in” until 6:15am so as to have breakfast in the albergue at 6:45am.  We were expecting to encounter some remnants of yesterday’s storms but they seem to have passed by.  We left the albergue just before sunrise and were pleased that the dirt/gravel tracks had dried out surprisingly well from yesterday’s deluge.  The terrain and fields of wheat and other crops was similar to yesterday.  After ~14km we entered El Cubo de tierra del Vino (roughly translates to “Wine Cube”!) and had second breakfast at a bar - with Lynn and Sabina.

Unfortunately, we had to say goodbye to Lynn - we met her at the end of our third day of walking when we were drinking beer in the square and our table’s umbrella blew over, striking her in the head.  Sabina is from Munich and started walking yesterday in Salamanca.  She did the first half of the del Plata last year and will finish it this year.  As we began the afternoon’s walk it was cooler and windy and we worried that the rain would resume but that did not happen and we finished our day walking in cool and breezy conditions.  The fields of wheat and corn were irrigated and closer to our destination of Villanueva de Campean we were in rolling hills with vineyards.  The small village has a population of less than 200.  There are two albergues and a single bar and we stayed at the municipal albergue - 10 beds (5 bunks) and cost was only 5 euros!  After showering and doing a bit of laundry we had some wine in the bar and a snack back in the albergue.  Dinner at 7:30pm in the bar.

Leaving our albergue just at sunrise - with Sabina from Munich

View of El Cubo de tierra del Vino (roughly translates to “Wine Cube”!) where we had second breakfast at a bar with Lynn and Sabina.

For several kilometers we walked with fields on our left and unused railroad tracks on our right

Wheat fields gave way to mix of vineyards and wheat.

Standing in the rather short doorway of our Albergue.  Inside is fairly modern but the facade is pretty old.

Via de la Plata - Day 24: Salamanca to Urbanization El Chinarral (25.8km on 5/12/17)

Had bananas and yoghurt in the room and were walking by 6:10am.  The route out of town was straightforward but we were disappointed to not find an open bar to have our cafe con leche.  After getting outside the beltway we walked along the side of the N-630 highway for awhile and then on gravel farm roads.  The first village was sleepy and quiet and unfortunately also without an open bar for coffee.  After about 14km we passed through Calzada de Valdunciel and found a local person who directed us to a bar where we had huevos con jamon and cafe con leche - a very welcome meal.  We had walked through a bit of rain before 2nd breakfast and it continued off and on for the rest of the day’s walk.  Again, mostly on farm roads through fields of (mostly) wheat.  The final kilometer was through steady and then hard rain.  Our albergue, Hostel Casa Saso is in a small undeveloped village, Urbanization El Chinarral.  The albergue’s rooms are in small outbuildings with the toilets and showers in a separate building.  We relaxed most of the afternoon while periodic heavy rain and thunderstorms swept through.  Dinner will be in a small “dining room” attached to the innkeeper’s home.  Glenn and I are in a room with 3 single beds and we were pleased that Lynn, a pilgrim we met on our second day of walking, arrived to take the third bed in our room.   

Pilgrims' shadows on the wheat field at sunrise

Very broad fields and gravel roads

Storm clouds gathering again - road between cultivated fields and wheat fields

Rain started falling steadily so no more pictures on today's route

Via de la Plata - Day 23: Salamanca rest day (5/11/17)

We enjoyed a rest day - a “zero day”, as it’s called by pilgrims, a day of no walking.  At least no camino walking but we did spend most of the day sightseeing in Salamanca.  Had a late breakfast at 8am, visited the nearby public market (pork products galore!), walked around the old city, visited the Casa de las Conchas (an old convent now a public library), the University of Salamanca (one of the oldest in Europe) and the new and old cathedrals.  Second breakfast was at a Valor Cafe for churros con chocolate and cafe con leche.  We had a menu del dia lunch nearby then relaxed in our room.  Glenn decided he also needed to replace his hiking boots so we returned to the outdoor shop where I bought my new shoes yesterday.

Salamanca public market - near the Plaza Mayor

Salamanca public market - near the Plaza Mayor

We saw Michel - a nice frenchman that we've known for several weeks

Salamanca public market - near the Plaza Mayor

Salamanca public market - near the Plaza Mayor

Casa de las Conchas - facade is covered with sculpted scallop shells.  A former convent and now a public library.

Inside of Conchas de las Conchas

Two cups of cafe con leche and on order of "churros con chocolate" (melted chocolate to dip churros).  All of this for 5 euros!!  At a Valor cafe.

Old facade of the University of Salamanca - one of the oldest universities in Europe

In 2018 the University celebrates 800th anniversary

Old benches/seats in a lecture hall

Interesting sarcophagas and artwork in Salamanca's "old cathedral"

Enforma outdoor store not far from Plaza Mayor (see below)

Glenn and manager of the outdoor store where we both bought new shoes.  The shoes we had been using were falling apart.  Lining of Glenn's was fraying and the insoles of mine had compressed down to nothing near the ball of my feet, causing blisters and pains.  

Via de la Plata - Day 22: San Pedro de Rozados to Salamanca (24.3km on 5/10/17)

We were anxious to reach Salamanca before significant rain (as per forecast) so had bananas and yoghurt breakfast in our room and were on the road by 6:10am.  Walked through a village after an hour but bars were closed so could not get coffee.  Continued on mostly smooth gravel/dirt tracks and after another two hours a light drizzle commenced.  Just enough to require raingear.  It stopped raining so we took a break and had cookies, chocolate and finished our cheese and continued on.  We reached Salamanca just before noon after 24.3km so made very good time.  Had cafe con leche and settled in to our room at Hotel Los Angeles - overlooking Plaza Mayor, Salamanca’s central square.  Had a nice menu del dia at Tapas Bar & Restaurante Bambu.  Then siesta and afterwards shopped a bit.  I bought a new pair of shoes and hope they break in easily and work out well.  My original shoes are pretty well worn out.  Dinner was at two nearby tapas bars.  Better and cheaper than our experience in Madrid.  

Sunrise with reflection in a farm pond

Looking back at village in the morning sun

Typical path and view for the morning

Finally see Salamanca in the distance

Roman bridge leading into the old part of Salamanca.  We walked 24km (15 miles) before noon

Via de la Plata - Day 21: Fuenterroble de Salvatierra to San Pedro de Rozados (28.1km on 5/09/17)

We’ve been looking at today’s hike as being long, hot, rugged, reaching the highest elevation so far on our camino and with my sore feet and Glenn’s swollen ankles.  Fortunately none of that was as bad as anticipated!  We left the albergue by ~6:30am and enjoyed yet another glorious morning walking while watching the sunrise.  The first part of the day was on a fairly smooth gravel road and then we walked either on the Roman road or on a track alongside.  After ~12km we began the “big climb” but it was more of a steady climb and the rocky trail mentioned in the guides did not materialize.  We climbed steadily, reaching the Pico de la Duena - a ridgeline (lined with wind turbines) rather than a peak.  At nearly 1200m it is the highest elevation we’ve seen so far on our camino.  The descent was not too steep or slippery and we walked on a paved road for awhile but mostly on a track or trail alongside.  We made very good time, putting in 21km before noon and finishing at 28km by 2pm.  The last 10km was through farmland and with a few nice ranches.  San Pedro de Rozados is a small village with two albergues and a nice “Casa Rural”.  The first albergue we tried was fully booked so we got a nice room at the “Casa Rural VII Carreras”.  It’s a nice small hotel and we had a beer in the courtyard, parked our bags in the room and then had a nice three course lunch with bottle of red wine.  Cleaning up and wandering the village took the rest of the afternoon - this is a great time of day.  Now enjoying the hotel's courtyard and the early evening.    

Sunrise

Another sunrise picture

Early morning - stone fences, fields and gravel road

Yet another sunrise shot - so beautiful and it's hard to see which picture is best on my small screen

Roman milepost along our route.  Most of the day is either beside or on top of the Roman road

Vegetation changing a bit

Leaving the mostly flat route and beginning our climb

Ascended to a ridgeline of wind turbines - and Pico de la Duena

Pico de la Duena - not really much of a "peak" but is at the top of a ridegeline.

View from Pico de la Duena looking towards our destination and beyond that would be Salamanca

Looking back at the Pico de la Duena 

View of ranch lands

Pigs enjoying the sunny day

Approaching our destination - San Pedro de Rozados

Via de la Plata - Day 20: Valverde de Valdelcasa to Fuenterroble de Salvatierra (12km on 5/08/17)

We had instant coffee and digestive biscuits in the Albergue and were on the route by 7am or so.  It was a nice 12km walk mostly on gravel tracks to Fuenterroble de Salvatierra and we had coffee and a snack then checked into the Albergue Parroquial de Fuenterroble de Salvatierra.  Then back to a bar for a nice lunch.  At the albergue we are the only two in a double-bunk room in a  building sponsored by ABOC (American Pilgrims on the Camino).  Afternoon we toured the church of the parish that sponsers the albergue - it’s a very well known albergue for this camino route.  

Morning path shaded by trees

Later we walked in more exposed area but it was comfortable before noon

Our Albergue

Very comfortable grounds of the Albergue

Our albergue has multiple small buildings (plus the usual large bunk rooms) and this building where we stay is sponsored by APOC (American Pilgrims on the Camino)

The parish priest collected tradespersons wagons

Next to the church is a portion of the Roman road - excavated to show the cross-section of the construction.

The local church of the parish that sponsors our albergue - we toured and went to the bell tower.