Via de la Plata - Day 19: Banos de Montemayor to Valverde de Valdelcasa (22km on 5/07/17)

We had breakfast provided by the Albergue (left on trays in the kitchen area) and left by ~7am.  Within 500m we began walking along the route of the Roman road, climbing up and over the ridge into the next valley.  After a short section on the highway we continued along a forested track and the Roman road.  We crossed a Roman bridge and continued, often passing the Roman milestones.  After ~12km we entered a village but the bar was closed, it being Sunday morning, so we had water, chocolate and trail mix while sitting in the shade.  The track continued along the Roman road’s route and after another 10km we entered our destination, the small quiet village of Valverde de Valdelcasa.  There are supposedly two albergues and we chose the municipal - as is common the place was locked and a local person directed us to the village’s only bar where we got the key.  There, we had a very nice omelette bocadillo and cerveza con limon for lunch.  Over to the albergue and we were the only two there for the night.  As we were leaving to walk around the hospitallero showed up and helped us start a load of laundry.  After wandering the village we returned to the bar for dinner - bottle of tinto and another bocadillo.  The bar was fun.  The covered patio was full of local people, there was a playground for children and old men were playing cards in the bar.  A few babies were passed around by the local ladies to be admired.

Pre-sunrise look back to the town where we stayed last night.

First part was on Roman road but we did have a short section on the highway.

Much of the morning was spent on forest lined path following the Roman road. 

 

View of snow on not-to-far-away mountain ridge

Walking on Roman road between stone walls with fields on either side.  Fortunately still ~noon and not too warm.

Municipal Albergue - Albergue Santiago Apostol in Valverde de Valdelcasa.  In a small village there's often no staff and albergues are locked.  We were directed to a bar where the owner gave us the key to the albergue and took our money.  We were the only two people staying there.

Via de la Plata - Day 18: Hostal Asturias to Banos de Montemayor (24.9km on 5/06/17)

Breakfast in Hostal was at 7am so we slept later than usual and had coffee in bar then hit the road.  The Via de la Plata was 2.5km and then we followed the trail for a bit then for pretty much the rest of the day we walked on the N-630 highway - not much fun and hard on the feet.  We did enjoy the morning mist and cool temperatures.  Last night there was a large thunderstorm and we hope that’s the last rain for awhile.  We stopped in Aldeanueva del Camino for churros and coffee and to get some groceries.  Found insoles to supplement my shoes as the shoes seem pretty “thin” when walking on these hard surfaces.  The 10km to our destination of Banos de Montemayor went slowly on the pavement of the highway and I arrived with a very tender left foot - I had thought my foot problems were behind me.  We checked into the very nice, modern Albergue Touristico Via de la Plata and the only other guest was Michel, a frenchman that we’ve seen quite a few times.  Considering that other days we’ve encountered full albergues, this was a pleasant surprise.  We had lunch/dinner back in the town and relaxed for the rest of the day.  The village has thermal baths and use dates back to Roman times.

View of Hostal Asturias as we left in the morning.

Cranes in a field in the morning

~90% of the walking was on paved highway we did have a quiet shady section as we neared our destination

The back yard and garden of Albergue Touristico Via de la Plata.  Although it's in the village this view seems very country-like.

Via de la Plata - Day 17: Carcaboso to Arco Romano de Caparra (20km on 5/05/17)

We got an early start and were on the trail before 6:30.  Weather was cool and cloudy and threatening to rain. Later in the morning we walked through light rain for several hours.  Walk was on gravel track then onto route of Roman road and most of the morning was on a trail through meadows of oak trees - often alongside stone walls.  We encountered two different large livestock guardian dogs that made menacing runs at us.  We kept our hiking poles at the ready and moved away.  That’s the first encounter of that type for us.  After nearly 20km we reached the site of the Arco Romano de Caparra - the iconic unofficial “logo” of the via de la Plata.  The arch sits astride the intersection of the via de la Plata and the main street of the Roman town of Caparra.   The city is a significant archaeological site and has been excavated, exposing the Roman road, forum, baths and homes.  The village was surrounded by a wall and outside the wall there was an amphitheater.  We visited the museum and saw a scale model of the impressive Roman village.  Originally we were going to continue on foot to the Hostal Asturias that’s several kilometers off the main route.  Other pilgrims had called the hostal owner to arrange pickup by van so we decided to join them.  

Looking back on our path in early morning - threatening skies!

Walked along irrigation canal for awhile.  Only a bit of walking on asphalt today

Lots of stone walls today.  Here the path of the Roman road ascends and crosses a ridge.

View back towards Carcaboso

Track gave way to pathway for much of morning

Granite cubes (waymarkers) make convenient resting spots - but usually not in pairs

Really nice views of stone walls, meadows and oak trees

We walked through the flock and were harassed by the "livestock guardian dog" - a bit scary

Rain over the hills in the distance - we walked in rain but not too much

Arriving at Arco Romano de Caparra archaeology site - this is the Roman road "via de la Plata" whose route we will follow for much of our camino

Arco Romano de Caparra - the via de la Plata road passes unde the arch and at right angles the main road of the Roman village passes through

On one side of the arch is the Forum

Looking through the arch from the village towards the forum

Sites of houses

More houses

In background is the arch and the forum.  To the right were houses and the Roman bath.

Via de la Plata - Day 16: Galisteo to Carcaboso (11.9km on 5/04/17)

I woke up at the usual time of 5am and then dozed off again, waking at 7:30!!  Really strange to sleep so late.  We left the hotel and walked back through town.  The first bar did not have any food so we continued through the village and found nothing else open so had some trail mix and water in the square.  We really should have stopped for coffee at the first bar!  Ah, well.  Out of town through a gate in the city wall, down and across a nice Roman bridge.  The entire day’s walk was on a narrow 2 lane asphalt road, fortunately not much traffic.  We have been amazed at the amount of water being used for irrigation in the local fields.  Things are pretty lush at this time of year.  Away from the stream things are a bit drier but this area seems to have nice farmlands.  Today’s walk was only 12km (~7 miles) and we arrive Carcaboso before noon.  The municipal Albergue Majalavaa is very nice, with ~14 beds and was recently remodeled.  We settled in, showered and left as many clothes as possible for laundry.  Exploring the village we found a few bars, a grocery store and a restaurant - lunch starting at 1:30pm.  We had a three course lunch, bought groceries for dinner and lunch tomorrow and had a nice nap.  We were woken by a small film crew who wanted to interview a few pilgrims.  We explored the village and found a church that had a facade supported by columns made of Roman milestones.  Nearby were several more milestones set up in a courtyard.  Quite interesting.  Dinner was bread, wine, cheese, tomatoes and an apple - a very nice change from some of our heavier meals.

Stork in nest atop Roman bridge just outside Galisteo

View back to Galisteo with Roman bridge on right

Entire 12km was walking along this road.  Not too much traffic but a bit hard on the feet.

Municipal Albergue Majalavara in Carcaboso

The hospitallero, Alicia, and the kitchen/dining area in the background

Our dormitory contains 7 bunkbeds

Roman milestones and stones in background from a Roman bridge

Closeup of a Roman Miliarios (Milestone)

The facade of the church supported by columns made by stacking Roman milestones.

Via de la Plata - Day 15: Canaveral to Galisteo (28km on 5/03/17)

We decided to skip the Albergue’s breakfast as it was later than we wanted - had instant coffee, yoghurt and bananas for breakfast and were on the road by 6:30am.  The route was easy to follow even that early and passed over a ridgeline and descended to a very different type of terrain.  Scattered oak trees (some were cork oak) and grasslands with cattle.  The land was not as “desolate” as yesterday.  We crossed another watershed and as we descended we could see the medieval walled city of Galisteo in the distance.  Unfortunately, we could not reserve a room or bed in the city center so stayed at Hotel Medina Ghaliayah on the outskirts, a kilometeror so from the albergue.  After cleaning up and resting we returned to the village and wandered around the walled area - had a nice bottle of wine at Plaza de Espana.  As we left that area, we climbed up to the city wall and walked along.  The descent on a narrow stone staircase with no railing was a bit difficult. 

Stone fountain on the outskirts of Canaveral

Looking back towards Canaveral pre-sunrise.

Glenn on first uphill of the day - before sunrise

Walking through the cork oak forest in early morning

Pathway and terrain

Sitting on a granit waymark.  These granite cubes make nice resting places.  Not too many benches along the way.

Landscape view

Galisteo in the distance

Inside the city wall

Galisteo city wall

The city walls - encircling the old section of Galisteo

Via de la Plata - Day 14: Casar de Caceres to Canaveral (34.4km on 5/02/17)

We made instant coffee in the albergue and had a muffin then hit the road by 6:30am.  Another great sunrise and the route out of town was easy to follow.  The first part was on a gravel road between stone walls and through a mix of pasture but mostly through scrub lands.  Eventually we left the gravel road and followed dirt tracks.  In many places there were lots of large exposed rocks.  We were roughly following a watershed towards a reservoir and when we reached that we descended on trails and followed a highway, crossing two different rivers that fed the lake.  A high speed rail line is under construction so the route has changed from previous years.  After the second bridge we left the road and climbed on a trail, reaching a plateau and followed that for another 10km - often of recognizable sections of the old Roman road.  By early afternoon the weather was quite warm and we were without much shade.  We crossed under the rail line that was under construction and welcomed sitting on a cool concrete slab in the shade.  We finally reached the village of Canaveral and checked into the Hostel Canaveral (we had made reservations yesterday so were assured of a room).  My blisters are still troubling me but not so much as I might have expected.  We definitely enjoyed our pint of “cerveza con limon” (beer and lemonade) at the bar after we arrived!   

Sunrise

Early morning light on path

Morning pathway

New railway bridge in background.  

Leaving the highway and climbing

A warm afternoon - just a bit of shade here

Probably pieces of Roman road visible

Pathway and village of Canavaral in the distance

We are 1.6km from our destination!