del Norte - Day 38 (9-June-2016): Arzua to O Pedrouzo (19km)

We are still in "culture shock" over the increased number of pilgrims now that we have joined the Camino Frances route.  We estimate there are 500-1000 pilgrims per day compared to 40-50 on our del Norte route.  We called ahead last night so were able to book a bed at an albergue in O' Pedrouzo.  All the small hotels were fully booked but the albergue is quite nice.  We walked only 19km today and moved fairly quickly, keeping in pace with the crowds.  Our friends from Melbourne walked with us and are staying at the same place.  After arrival and cleaning up we did our laundry (quite a treat!) and then shared two bottles of wine with them on our patio area.  

Tomorrow we finish our Journey! 

Pretty typical walking conditions but it's difficult to give a view showing the lines of pilgrims walking.

Ditto!

Ditto!

del Norte - Day 37 (8-June-2016): Sobrodo dos Monxes to Arzua (22.7km)

It was a clear and cool morning and we left Sobrodo about 8:30am.  Walking conditions were nice and we had second breakfast after 9km and continued onwards.  Early walking was on gravel tracks and one lane paved roads changing to small roads for the rest of the day.  The cool weather changed mid-morning to pretty warm weather for the rest of the day and we were uncomfortable.  The end in Arzua signifies our completions of "del Norte" as we join the Camino Frances route there.  It was, as expected, quite a culture shock as the Frances has 10 times the pilgrim traffic as del Norte.  The first and biggest evidence of that was our difficulty in finding lodgings  Arzua seeming had lots of accomodations but we were unable to find a pension in the town.  One of the albergues did have beds but we had wanted the comfort of a private room. We finally found a small hotel just outside of town and are staying at Hotel Suiza.  We spent at least an hour making calls to tomorrow's ending place trying to locate lodgings and finally settled for a small albergue - all the pensions and hotels were fully booked.  Fortunately, we made reservations for Santiago several days ago!

The morning's pathways

Beautiful countryside

del Norte - Day 36 (7-June-2016): Miraz to Sobrodo dos Monxes (24.8km)

We left Miraz at 8am and in fog but comfortable for walking.  Typical pathway was one lane gravel or asphalt track with a bit along two lane roads.  We stopped after 10km for second breakfast at albergue of O Roxico then continued up, mostly uphill but not too steep.  Today was supposed to be the highest point on del Norte (~700m) but not really noticeable.  We sat on the stone of a bridge for our lunch then continued a few kilometers to another bar and another 6km where we finally reached Sodobro dos Monxes after walking 24.8km.  The primary point of Sodobro dos Monxes is a large monastery dating back to the 10th century, although most of the buildings date to 1700 or so.  We toured the monastery and found it to be somewhat eerie since little maintence seems to have been done for a long time and the building interior and exterior is green with mold and has plants growing on the walls in places.  It also is home to an albergue but we are staying across the square in an older hotel (Hotel San Marcus).  Enjoyed two liters of Sangria with our friends and then had dinner nearby. 

Morning fog and pathway

Cows herded down path towards us

Nice view of forest and path

Cloister of Monastery at Sobrodo

Interior of church - eerie and poorly maintained

Facade of Monastery at Sobrodo

del Norte - Day 35 (6-June-2016): Baamonde to Miraz (16.3km)

Our albergue experience at Baamonde was quite satisfactory.  Dining in the village was not, although we did have an excellent 3 euro bottle of white wine yesterday while we were waiting for laundry.  We left town in a light mist but that stopped after 30 minutes or so..  We walked along the highway for 3km and then onto pathway through the forest and then fields, stopping at a nice little albergue for "second breakfast" of tarte and cafe.  Finally, we walked on one lane roads into Miraz.  Today was a fairly short day again, only 16.3km to Miraz where we decided to stay with friends (Marigold and Gabby) at a new place, Albergue O' Abrigo, that had been recommended to them.  We arrive shortly after noon and had a nice "menu del dia" lunch.  We've been assigned lower bunks so that's nice and we hope the albergue does not fill up. 

Romanesque church near Baamonde

Interesting building in state of collapse

Stone building and flowers near where we had second breakfast

Second breakfast at nice little albergure along the way

Home of local sculptor - very interesting

Sculpture on wall of his home

We saw several flocks of sheep and/or goats with shepherds, dogs, etc.

del Norte - Day 34 (5-June-2016): Vilalba to Baamonde (21.1km)

We left town on a foggy, humid morning.  Walking was comfortable and it was another "short" day of 21km walking.  We were mostly on country lanes and dirt famers tracks with very few intermediate villages.  We did find two bars en route so had second breakfast and a light lunch.  Arrived at Baamonde, where there's only an albergue (~90 beds) and a service station with a motel nearby on the highway.  We chose the albergue and were assigned lower bunks so that's nice - 6 euros per person.  After showering we took advantage of the washing machines and bought a bottle of white wine at the nearby cafe (3 euros for quite respectable wine!) to enjoy with friends while waiting for the laundry.  

The Parador Hotel is in an old castle's tower.  Photographed in the morning fog.

Stone house with slate roof.

Nice walking conditions

Stop for "second breakfast" with our friends from Melbourne (Marigod and Gabrielle).

Cindy and Marigold at Albergue

Our bunks are first two - bottom bunks and tops are empty so not too crowded

del Norte - Day 33 (4-June-2016): Abadin to Vilalba (20.5km)

Today was uneventful with a shortish (20.5km) walk and through level terrain.  Almost entirely on one lane farm roads or dirt and gravel tracks,  Weather was humid but cool and comfortable for walking.  We only had one opportunity to stop for cafe and snack and then continued into Vilalba.  It's not a particularly attractive city but will be the last city for several days.  We are staying at a nondescript largish hotel (Hotel Vila do Alba) and had we known there were lots of better options we would not have booked ahead.  However, since yesterday the lodgings filled quickly in the smaller village, we thought it best to take no chances.  We wandered around town, had lunch, encountered a few familar pilgrims and then relaxed in our room and made some phone calls.  Dinner was at a place we had noticed earlier in the day, Restaurante A Lareira, and quite a treat.  Pimientos de Padron, Ensalada Mxte and Chipirones a la Plancha - with a nice bottle of Albarino wine.

Pathway on one lane road

Typical trail for most of today - very green and aromatic

Milepost indicating 136.384km to Santiago!  

More verdant forest surrounding the way

Stone slabs set on edge and used as a fence - very common in this area of Galicia

Pimientos de Padron - deep fried sweet green peppers sprinkled with coarse salt

Nice mixed salad

Chipirones a la Plancha

Inside of restaurant:  A Lareira

del Norte - Day 32 (3-June-2016): Lourenza to Abadin (26.2km)

Our little hotel (Casa Gloria) was associated with a bakery and we had a shared kitchen.  The neat thing was that each room had a shelf in the frig and the baker gave us each a tray of pastries for breakfast.  

We headed out of town and encountered the first hill of the day - on a natural trail and very pretty but steep!  We climbed several kilometers and then descended into Mondonedo - one of Galicia's ancient capitals.  We had second breakfast at a bar on the square in front of the old cathedral.  Then, leaving town we began climbing in earnest.  The first several kilometers were very steep and then leveled out a bit into a gradual climb.  The final climb was again very steep and we had climbed for 11km (7 miles).  The weather was sunny but cool so somewhat of a help.  However, I did not carry enough water and there were no fountains for the climb nor until we reached our destination after 26km.  Not a huge deal today as it was cool but on a hot day it would have been a big mistake.  I could have asked for water at a farmhouse, I suppose.

We arrived at our village (Abadin) and enjoyed a glass of Sidra before finding a room at Pension Casa Goas.  Abadin, and nearby town of Gontan, are small but with enough facilities - bars, lodging, grocery store and restaurants to serve us well.

Cindy on the first hill of the day.  Not that there were that many - they were just long!

Our pathway (note camino symbol) took us underneath this old granary.

These are the local equivalent of Collard Greens - used in a typical soup

Village of Mondonedo - one of the ancient capitals of Kingdom of Galicia

Old cathedral in Mondonedo

Climbing is the mantra for today

Looking across the steep-walled valley

Climbing contines

We have now reached the "top" of the valley - after climbing for 11km (7miles).  After this it was an easy 6km into Abadin