Saturday, June 30, 2018

Primitivo - Day 2: Grado to Salas (23km on 7/1/18)


I got up early and made my last breakfast as an hospitalero then ate breakfast as if I were a peregrino.  Neil and I left the albergue at 6:45 and headed off towards Salas. The first ~6km was pretty steeply uphill and we both were feeling the effects of not being very active the last half of June.  After the ascent and a bit of rolling hills we descended towards Cornellano, passing two other small albergues along the way. We were on narrow asphalt tracks for much of that part then left for a sometimes muddy path along a small stream.  In Cornellano we stopped for coffee and a tapas. As we left town we passed an abandoned, except for an albergue in one wing, monastery that dates back to 1047. There were a few unexpected small hills along the way and the sun was out, making it a bit hot when not in the shade.  We were both pretty sore and tired when we arrived in Salas and took the first Albergue (“Albergue Touristico” Valle del Nonaya) we found. After a cold beer in the albergue and a shower we had lunch at Bar El Arco. Nothing special but just what we wanted and included a nice bottle of Monastriel wine from the Jumilla region.  


Neil and I just before leaving the Albergue de Grado

Steep pathway and looking back into Grado

Hedge of Hydrangeas

Descent on a gravel road

Trail markings

Small town of Cornellana

Monastery of Cornellana.  Established 1047 but now empty except for an albergue

Pathway, sometimes muddy, along a small stream

Asturian style Horreo (granary). Top section sets on wooden and stone pillars and designed to prevent entry of animals.





Friday, June 15, 2018

Primitivo - Hospitalero in Grado 6/15 - 6/30/18)

I worked as a hospitalero in the Villa Gado Albergue from June 15-30. I took lots of photos but unfortunately the blog entry that included photos was lost.  Ah, well.  Here's a picture of the albergue and the diary entry describing our adventure.

Hospitalero at Albergue de Grado:  This is a municipal albergue that is sponsored by the city of Grado and staffed with volunteers.  I will work with two others and it will be interesting to see how things will be.

Although our hospitalero duties run from the 16th through the 30th we were expected to overlap for one full day to ease the transition.  Two Americans (John and Victoria) worked the first half of the June and I worked with Neil (Australian) and Kent (South African). The albergue will be staffed with three hospitaleros rather than the usual two for the busy season this year.  Albergue de Grado has been open since 2016 and is housed in an old two story stone building that was renovated at that time so is quite nice. On the ground floor we have the reception and breakfast common area plus a kitchen with dining space as well.  The hospitaleros share a bedroom and bath on the ground floor.


Upstairs is the pilgrim’s toilet/shower and dormitory with space for 16 pilgrims in bunk beds.  Beds have fitted plastic sheets as do the pillows. Cotton pillowcases are changed weekly. Blankets are supplied and Pilgrims bring their own “liner sheets” or light sleeping bags. Men and women share the bathroom area but the toilets and women’s shower area have doors so are reasonably private.    


A typical “work day” in the albergue:  At night, ~9:30pm we set the breakfast table up with dishes and everything that does not need to be refrigerated.  I got up at 5:30am, started coffee pot, heated milk for coffee, boiled eggs, sliced bread for toast and finished setting up the table with margarine, juice, yoghurt, etc.  Pilgrims would start breakfast at 6am and were supposed to be gone by 8am. This time of year in Spain, sunrise is ~6:45am with sunset ~10pm. Afternoons are typically warm and humid so walking is much nicer in the AM.  After the last pilgrims have left we lock the front door, take a coffee break and start cleaning. With three workers the cleaning is usually done by 9am and then we relax a bit and do our shopping for the next day’s supplies.  The larger supermarket is open 9am-9pm so we don’t have to worry about siesta closures. In Grado, there’s a large village market on Sundays so Mondays most of the shops are closed and that complicates things a bit. We found a bakery that’s open every day and with bread that we like.  


Midday is a nice time for a nap and then we open the front door to the pilgrims at 2pm.  Many times there are 6 or so people waiting. We do not accept reservations and on most days we’ve been “completo” (i.e. fully booked) by 3-4pm.  Regardless of being full or not we offer a place for the pilgrims to sit plus a glass of water. For those staying with us we check their pilgrim’s credential, put our “stamp” on a page and then record their passport or identification card data (entering that into an online data system later).  The pilgrims are given a tour of the albergue and an explanation of operating hours, local shopping areas, etc. Pilgrims who arrive after we are full are also welcomed with water, etc. and we do our best to assist them in locating a place to stay. Typically, they do not want to walk further and there’s a private albergue in the village plus a small hotel.  Kent likes to cook so made our hospitalero dinner most nights. The pilgrims might eat dinner in the village or cook for themselves in the albergue’s kitchen. Then at ~9:30pm we’d start our preparations for the next day. Pilgrims were expected to be in bed in the dormitory with lights out at 10pm and we’d lock the albergue and go to bed ourselves.


On June 30 our replacement hospitaleros arrived and we departed July 1st to complete our Camino Primitivo o Santiago.

Wednesday, June 13, 2018

Primitivo - Day 1: Oviedo to Grado (26.9km on 6/14/18)


Considering the jet lag, I got a very good night’s sleep and got up a bit before 6am, had coffee and crackers for breakfast and then was on the road by 6;30.  I stopped in front of the cathedral to take a photo and called home to announce my departure. The initial first 3-5km was a bit dreary walking the city streets but soon turned more interesting.  Walking was mostly on rural lanes, farm tracks and trails. Until noon there was light cloud cover and moderate temperatures. After noon things cleared up a bit and the sun made it fell warmer than it was.  The route did not involve too many hills but enough to make my legs ache a bit at the end of the day. I arrived the Villa de Grado Albergue de Peregrinos around 3pm and introduced myself to the current hospitalero crew (John and Victoria).  I will live here for the next 16 days and tend to the needs of the pilgrims that will stay here.


This is a municipal albergue that is sponsored by the city of Grado and staffed with volunteers.  I will work with two others and it will be interesting to see how things will be.

Cathedral in the morning

Early on there were not a lot of markings.  This is what I looked for!

Morning view of the countryside and walking route

More of the typical scenery

Some of the route was on trails through the woods.  Fortunately not too much mud!

Primitivo - Day 0: Transit to Ovideo, Spain (6/12/18)


This is the beginning of another "Adventure in Spain".  I'll walk one day of the Camino Primitivo, then volunteer for 15 days in a pilgrim's hostel (aka Albergue), then continue walking the Camino route to Santiago de Compostela.

I left home at 4am to catch a flight from Seatlle to Dallas then a red-eye flight to Madrid.  The train connections from the airport to Madrid Chamartin station was easy with 3 trains per hour and 15 minute journey.  I caught the ~11:45am train for a 4.5 hour ride to Ovideo.  The train station is a 10 minute walk to the Cathedral, the official starting point of the Primitivo route and another 10 minutes to the albergue where I spent the night.

My lodging - the El Salvador Albergue de Peregrinos

Oviedo Cathedral, the official starting point of the ancient Camino Primitivo.  Parts of the cathedral date back over a thousand years.


Dinner was Fabadas Asturias - bean stew and a bottle of red wine.  All for less than $10.